Controlling the highs and the lows of alcohol in wine

Amid a continuing 'hot' and intense public health debate about harmful alcohol consumption, taking control of the alcohol concentration in wine has become a priority for the wine sector worldwide. Despite a growing body of evidence indicating the health benefits of responsible, light to moderate wine consumption, and the generally healthy pattern of wine consumption (slowly with food), wine is still much criticised in these debates. Over the past two decades, worldwide the average alcohol concentration of wine has risen. In contrast, consumer studies show an increasing preference for lower-alcohol wines. Ironically, the alcohol component is actually responsible for much of the cardiovascular health benefits, for example. Producers and researchers are now develop-ping new ways to reduce alcohol in some wine styles. Getting the alcohol concentration and balance right with body and positive fruit flavours can be surprisingly difficult. Options include changes to viticultural practices (e.g. reducing leaf area); fermentation and winemaking practices (e.g. selecting low Brix grapes and use of yeast strains with lower fermentation efficiency); wine processing technologies (e.g. alcohol removal and increasing relative humidity for lengthy barrel maturation); as well as considering carefully consumer preferences when making high alcohol wines. The current challenge for the wine sector is how to manage best the 'dark side' of alcohol worldwide and the 'bright' side of wine and society.